Over the weekend I was looking for a recipe and came across a vintage and well-used cookbook by Annie R. Gregory.
Published in 1902, “Woman’s Favorite Cook Book” is divided into three sections, one for novice homemakers, one on healthful recipes and one devoted to household economics.
The recipes are many and varied and some have a ring of yesterday: mutton pie, kidney tortillas, fricasseed hare and widow’s bread.
Many of them are signed by the contributors. The book says Gregory was “assisted by one thousand homekeepers.”
I’m not sure where I acquired the book, but it came here from Syracuse. I know this because a former owner clipped recipes from the Syracuse newspapers in the 1930s.
Gregory offers comprehensive guidance to homekeepers who are inclined to be hospitable. Under “Dinner Giving,” she notes that dinner parties begin at 7 p.m. in cities but frequently earlier in the country. “The serving maid should be trained to keep cool and avoid accidents.” The rule of thumb was one servant to every six guests so if you were entertaining 12 and had only one server, you might have to engage temporary help.
The favorite style of dinner service in the early part of the 20th century was “à la Russe,” which prescribed that dishes be carved by servants at a sideboard or in the kitchen and brought to the guests.
What really got my attention, however, was the number of courses at a dinner party and what they would include. The following is paraphrased for brevity:
First course: Oysters (but only in months with the letter “r”). Otherwise, little neck clams.
Second course: Soup, preferably clear, with crackers or bread and perhaps celery.
Third course: Fish, boiled or fried, with small boiled potatoes. If the fish is broiled or served in “any fancy manner,” serve radishes too.
Fourth course: “An entree is next in order if desired; it should be made in a fancy way, so as to avoid carving; bread should be the accompaniment,” along with relishes like olives, salted almonds.
Fifth course: Roasts — beef, veal, mutton, lamb, venison, turkey, duck, goose or capon, accompanied by one or two vegetables.
Sixth course: Punch or sherbet, but they’re not mandatory.
Seventh course: Snipe, prairie-chicken, squabs etc., but poultry like spring-chickens or duck may be served instead.
Eighth course: Any appetizing salad with cheese wafers.
Ninth course: Hot and cold sweet dishes like puddings, ice cream, cakes.
Tenth course: Fresh fruits and bonbons.
Last course: Turkish or black coffee served demi-tasse.
The author comments, “The above makes a pleasant menu, but it can be made simpler or more elaborate as one chooses.”