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At the Table: La Serre lives up to reputation, is close to ‘extra-special’

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ALBANY — La Serre has gravitas. After 35 years, it is established, dignified, and has acquired a genteel patina. Now it just needs to tweak a few things. The dining rooms are clubby, cozy, mahogany-paneled, with coffered ceilings and leather-upholstered furniture. Jazzy music plays softly and the carpet keeps things quiet. There are white table linens, pink orchid sprays and brass sconces. My dining companion, Mary, liked the green leather banquettes that embraced the smaller ...


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